Travellers heading to the UK this summer can opt to eschew typical accommodation options such as hotels, guesthouses, homestays and tents and instead consider spending a night in one of the country's historic churches. That's exactly what Charlie Hill, an author based in Birmingham, decided to do on his last holiday.
Making his way to St Cuthbert's Church in Holme Lacy, a picturesque village in the English county of Herefordshire, Hill was indulging in a spot of champing – a combination of the words "church" and "camping", and an activity that is exactly what it sounds like – camping in a church. His sleepover with soul involved a visit to the adjacent graveyard on a balmy summer evening, a trip to the village pub for dinner, and finally bedding down inside the 13th-century building on the banks of the River Wye.
For Hill, the experience was fascinating, not least because the church that he chose to stay in was, until very recently, a regular place of worship for the local community.
“We came across a number of people who were somewhat bemused as to what we were doing there, and why their church had been re-purposed as a recreational venue," Hill told The National.
"The experience of sitting in camping chairs surrounded by gravestones also made us question deeper subjects, like the intractability of grief."
Hill's stay was organised by the Churches Conservation Trust, a national charity protecting the UK's historic places of worship. Taking the idea that the churches' doors are always open to new heights, the scheme invites travellers to spend a night inside an ancient kirk. Revenue from stays goes directly to restoring the building, and for the many churches under the trust's watch, the scheme has been something of a lifeline.
Across the UK, churches have long been the focal point for communities. As well as being used for worship, many of these places do double-duty, hosting children’s nurseries, senior citizen lunch clubs and acting as spaces for concerts, exhibitions, and farmers markets. However, as places of worship lose their congregations – the number of British churchgoers fell from 11.8 per cent of the population to only five per cent between 1980 and 2015 according to consulting company Brierley Consultancy – and these beautiful ageing buildings are bearing the brunt of the decline.
While many former churches have been fashioned into apartments, theatres, restaurants, and even nightclubs, often their unique architectural elements such as pointed arches, rib vaults, buttresses, pillars and steeples, can pose challenges for developers. And that's one of the reasons that the Churches Conservation Trust came up with the concept of champing.
Hoping to inspire travellers while preserving at-risk venues across the UK, the concept allows these historic abodes to keep the architectural elements that make them so attractive, while offering travellers central locations to stay in many of the country's pretty towns and villages.
In 2015, the scheme began with the first sleepover at All Saints Church in the village of Aldwincle in Northamptonshire. Today, there are 22 historic churches across England and Wales registered as champing spots, and more than 10,000 champers have spent a night under their eaves.
Champers have their church accommodation entirely to themselves for the evening. The set-up for each stay varies slightly, but tables and chairs are often laid out in front of the alter, while camp beds adorned with fairy lights are placed under arches or below stained glass windows. In most venues, cooking isn't an option, but tea and coffee-making facilities are usually available, as are hot water bottles. A hand-delivered picnic breakfast can also be provided, at an additional cost.
Some of the churches on the books have flushing toilets, while others have eco-loos in the garden that run on solar power. However, using these may mean a dash past some gravestones in the middle of the night if nature calls. Showering is unavailable to champers, so shorter stays are recommended.
Rates are reasonable – starting from only £49 ($63) for adults, £25 for children and infants staying free. On weekends, it costs a little more – £59 per adult, £30 for children – but rates are still competitive as they have remained the same for seven consecutive years. Pet owners are also welcome, and these dog-friendly churches don't charge any additional fees for furry guests.
Sleepovers are available at churches in several counties across the UK, including Shropshire, Buckinghamshire, Somerset, Yorkshire, Wiltshire, Cumbria, Anglesey, Essex and more. The majority of the venues are not heated, which is why champing season largely runs from March to October, with only a handful of churches offering year-round stays.
Some of the venues are well-lit and offer campers access to a few electric sockets to use during their stay, but others are completely off-grid. The original venue, All Saints Church, is one such stay. The Grade 1 listed building has limestone arcades and arches and a medieval interior that's almost cavernous. Travellers bedding down here can embrace the historical experience with no electricity, but lanterns are provided and champers can bring their own torches. While this won't appeal to everyone, it offers a unique adventure for those looking to truly get away from it all.
St Dona's Church, Llanddona, Anglesey
This small 19th-century parish church is located in the village of Llanddona, in Anglesey, North Wales. A church was first built on this site in 610; and the present structure dates from 1873 and includes a 15th-century doorway and a 17th-century bell. Nestled amidst the hillside and overlooking Llanddona beach, the active church offers seaside views and access to a warm, welcoming community. The interior showcases a beautiful stained glass window, depicting Jesus Christ with St Curig and St Dona, with the sea in the background.
Maximum occupancy: Six
Things to do: Walk the Isle of Anglesey Coastal path, keep your eyes peeled for wildlife and birdlife, and explore the nearby town of Beaumaris.
Where to eat: Owain Glyndwr Pub
St Luke’s Church, Clifton, Cumbria
This beautiful Victorian church in West Cumbria is located on the edge of the Lake District. The existing structure dates from 1901, but a church has been standing on this site since 1080. The vibrant stained glass window that dominates the east end of the church brings in gorgeous light, while some old artifacts – such as a Norse Cross shaft dating to 870AD and some Norman architectural elements – stand tall as testimony to the church’s history. St Luke’s also offers a kitchenette, equipped with a microwave, refrigerator, kettle, and toaster – perfect for self-catering.
Things to do: Spend time outdoors in the scenic surrounds of the Lake district, head to Cockermouth – the birthplace of William Wordsworth, or visit Sawrey to explore the home of Beatrix Potter.
Maximum occupancy: Four
Where to eat: George and Dragon
St Barnabas Church, Queen Camel, Somerset
A cobbled street leads to St Barnabas Church, first mentioned in 1291 and rebuilt during the 14th and 15th centuries. The Grade I-listed building – built from local Blue Lias stone – showcases a few weathered yet impressive architectural elements: an octagonal font, a lectern with an eagle and an intricate pulpit. The lofty tower houses the second-heaviest set of six bells in Europe, weighing about six tonnes. The church now houses a kitchenette, complete with a microwave and toaster, along with accessible flushing toilets, is situated between Glastonbury and Yeovil.
Maximum occupancy: Eight
Things to do: Walk the lovely Leland Trail through rolling hills, explore the Haynes Motor Museum and Yeovilton Fleet Air Arm Museum.
Where to eat: The Mildmay Arms, Queen Camel
All Saints Church, Aldwincle, Northamptonshire
Located in the picturesque village of Aldwincle near the Nene River, Grade 1-listed All Saints Church dates back to the 13th century, with additions such as the carved tower made in the 14th and 15th centuries. The exterior of the church – which is where champing began in the UK – has carved birds, beasts and other creatures; and the chantry chapel, going back to 1489, is lovely. The medieval interior has beautiful limestone arches and arcades, creating an otherworldly feel. Don’t miss stained glass dating to the Middle Ages and fragments of a wall painting depicting St Peter.
Maximum occupancy: 12
Things to do: Explore Boughton House, walk to nearby Wadenhoe village, hire a canoe to paddle on the Nene, and visit Barnwell Country Park.
Where to eat: The Kings Arms
St Botolph’s Church, Limpenhoe, Norfolk
Limpenhoe, a small rural village within Norfolk Broads National Park, sits on the edge of the larger village of Cantley. The small church, St Botolph’s, dates back to the 12th century and began life as a simple thatched structure. The low tower was extended in 1880, and a beautiful Norman doorway and part of the 15th-century tower have survived the vagaries of time. The 13th-century marble font is well preserved, as is a spectacular stained glass window depicting the Baptism of Christ and the commissioning of St Peter.
Maximum occupancy: Six
Things to do: Go cycling or walking on the many rural trails, look for wildlife and birds on the marshes, and explore the town of Norwich.
Where to eat: The Reedcutter Inn
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